Mt Baker Ascents - 10,187' / 3286m
Like its brother Mt Rainier, Mt Baker is completely surrounded by extensive glaciers, requiring at least basic mountaineering skills to reach the summit by any route. Mt Baker also has technical routes that pose great challenges for intermediate and advanced climbers. It also has fewer people if you know where to go and easier logistics. I offer a variety of guided summit climbs, a unique circumnavigational tour, and custom instructional courses on Mt Baker.
If you're interested in backcountry skiing on and around Mt Baker, check out my ski itineraries here: LINK.
The routes up the Easton Glacier and the Coleman-Deming Glacier are great climbs for new and experienced mountaineers. The Coleman-Deming, in particular, is an excellent prep climb for Mt Rainier, with the distance and elevation gain almost perfectly two-thirds that of the Disappointment Clever Route. Maximum ratio 3:1.
- Easton Glacier, recommended 3 days
- Coleman-Deming Glaciers Route, 3 days
The Baker Express
One of Mt Baker's sterling qualities is that its big enough to justify an overnight climb, but short enough that if you're willing to put in full days it can be climbed in just two. Three routes in particular lend themselves to this "express-train" format. Best done with no more than a 2:1 ratio, but really these route really shine at 1:1
- Coleman-Deming Glaciers Route (Basic)
- North Ridge (Intermediate)
- Coleman Headwall (Advanced)
The Baker Bullet
This is the endurance test: car-to-car. With light packs carrying only what we need for the day, its an alpine start and a marathon to get it done. Again, the same climbs as the Baker Express are the best suitable to this approach. Rates depend on meeting and advanced logistics. Best done as a 1:1.
Intermediate Summit Climbs
The Boulder-Park Cleaver is more remote and requires greater glacier travel then the Easton or Coleman-Deming. The classic North Ridge takes the same time as the Colman-Deming, but requires two tools and is more technical.
- Boulder-Park Cleaver, 3 days, 3:1 max ratio
- North Ridge, 2-3 days, 2:1 max ratio
Advanced Summit Climbs
The Park Headwall is a seldom-climbed, steep snow route on the Northeast side of the mountain, featuring a fantastic alpine approach. The Coleman Headwall has a shorter approach, but is a longer route that becomes more technical as the summer progresses. In both instances, prior experience is required. 2:1 max ratio for both routes.
- Coleman Headwall, 2-3 days
- Park Headwall, 3 days
Mt Baker Circumnavigation and Summit
This 5-day adventure is so big it deserved its own page!
Mt Baker Instructional Trips - Mt Rainier Prep
I offer unique instructional courses that can be tailored to you, your team, and your objectives. This can include spending time with trip planning, navigating, route finding, and intermediate to advanced crevasse rescue skills. Guide-guest ratio will depend on your objectives and your prior experience.
Private dates are available June-August.
I'm able to offer these trips in cooperation with Pro Guiding Service.
Ratio varies and is listed with the program above.