Guye Peak - 5168' / 1575m
Only an hour away from downtown Seattle, Snoqualmie Pass has been a training ground for a 100 years of aspiring alpinists. This is an awesome venue for introduction to intermediate alpine climbs - and a few overnighters tossed in to raise the bar.
Guye Peak is a thumb in the eye - a big rock wall that stares down anyone driving eastwards through Snoqualmie Pass. While there is a handful of routes that wind up that face, the best of them is the Improbable Traverse
Because of the short approach, this is arguably a alpine-feeling rock climb or a close-by alpine climb. Either way, its a great day out at Snoqualmie Pass.
Improbable Traverse - 10 pitches, III 5.8
This is a fantastic route that I never tire of. Climbers need to be solid at the grade, because the traverse also happen to be the crux. Guye Peak also features an awesome walk-off down and around through the old-growth forest of Commonwealth Basin before reaching the car. Its a great day out.
Because of the nature of the traverse, this is best done at a 1:1 ratio.
South Couloir - Steeep snow, WI2
I was tempted to name this the Secret Couloir. Mature stands of forest hide the start of this climb, and then the route winds its way up past towers and ridges to the summit, never fully in view of the village or highway below. Best climbed in a normal to above-normal snow year in late March or early April, and the descent is an easy walk-off down to Commonwealth Basin and back to the car.
Max ratio 2:1 for this adventure
Private dates are available July-October for the Improbable Traverse, and March-April for the South Couloir.
I'm able to offer these trips in cooperation with Pro Guiding Service.