Beta


Like its brother Mt Rainier, Mt Baker is completely surrounded by extensive glaciers, requiring at least basic mountaineering skills to reach the summit by any route. Mt Baker also has technical routes that pose great challenges for intermediate and advanced climbers. But unlike its southern neighbor, Mt Baker doesn't have the crowds or the administrative and permit hassle. I offer a variety of guided summit climbs, a unique circumnavigational tour, and custom instructional courses on Mt Baker.


Summit Climbs

The routes up the Easton Glacier and the Coleman-Deming Glacier are great climbs for new and experienced mountaineers. The Coleman-Deming, in particular, is an excellent prep climb for Mt Rainier, with the distance and elevation gain almost perfectly two-thirds that of the Disappointment Clever Route. Maximum ratio 3:1.

  • Easton Glacier, recommended 3 days
  • Coleman-Deming Glaciers Route, 3 days

The Baker Express

One of Mt Baker's sterling qualities is that its big enough to justify an overnight climb, but short enough that if you're willing to put in full days it can be climbed in just two. Three routes in particular lend themselves to this "express-train" format. Best done at no more than 2:1 ratio, but really these route really shine at 1:1

  • Coleman-Deming Glaciers Route (Basic)
  • North Ridge (Intermediate)
  • Coleman Headwall (Advanced)

The Baker Bullet

This is the endurance test: car-to-car. With light packs carrying only what we need for the day, its an alpine start and a marathon to get it done. Again, the same climbs as the Baker Express are the best suitable to this approach. Rates depend on meeting and advanced logistics. Best done as a 1:1.


Intermediate Summit Climbs

The Boulder-Park Cleaver is more remote and requires greater glacier travel then the Easton or Coleman-Deming. The classic North Ridge takes the same time as the Colman-Deming, but requires two tools and is more technical.

  • Boulder-Park Cleaver, 3 days, 3:1 max ratio
  • North Ridge, 2-3 days, 2:1 max ratio

Advanced Summit Climbs

The Park Headwall is a seldom-climbed, steep snow route on the Northeast side of the mountain, featuring a fantastic alpine approach. The Coleman Headwall has a shorter approach, but is a longer route that becomes more technical as the summer progresses. In both instances, prior experience is required. 2:1 max ratio for both routes.

  • Coleman Headwall, 2-3 days
  • Park Headwall, 3 days

Mt Baker Instructional Trips - Mt Rainier Prep

I offer unique instructional courses that can be tailored to you, your team, and your objectives. This can include spending time with trip planning, navigating, route finding, and 1:1 crevasse rescue skills. Guide-guest ratio will depend on your objectives and your prior experience.


Mt Baker Circumnavigation

This is a unique alpine tour and summit of Mt Baker. Starting from the northwest side of the mountain, we'll travel counter-clockwise crossing the Coleman, Deming, Easton, Squak, Talum, Boulder, Park, Mazama, and Roosevelt Glaciers before returning to the Coleman Glacier and following the trail back to the car. Along the way we'll climb Mt Baker via the Boulder-Park Cleaver and possibly climb Colfax and Hadley Peaks. This tour and climb is physically demanding and technically intermediate with extensive glacier travel and packs weighing 45-55 pounds. 5 days, 3:1 maximum.

Day 1: After meeting in Glacier, Washington we'll drive to the trailhead, hike to Heliotrope Ridge, then cross the Coleman Glacier to the Coleman-Deming Saddle.

Day 2: Possibly climb Colfax Peak in the morning, then a descending traverse eastwards to the Squak Glacier, crossing the Deming and Easton Glaciers enroute.

Day 3: A relatively short day crossing the Talum and Boston Glacier to a camp at the toe of the Boston-Park Cleaver. We'll take advantage of any free time with crevasse rescue practice.

Day 4: Climb Mt Baker via the Boulder-Park Cleaver or the Boulder Glacier, then descend the Cockscomb to camp on the Park Glacier.

Day 5: A full day exiting - first crossing through Hadley Col before traversing the Roosevelt and Coleman Glaciers, finally catching the Heliotrope Ridge trail and returning to the cars. Dinner at Graham's!


All summit climbs are at least 2 day efforts, although some are best done as 3 day trips. All courses are 4 days long. Private dates are available June-October.

I'm able to offer these trips in cooperation with Pro Guiding Service.

Ratio varies and is listed with the program above.